Chasing Murray cod can be a proper waiting game. You can spend hours casting big lures, working likely water and second-guessing whether there's even a fish in the area. But with live sonar in the mix... you know exactly where the fish are.
Using ActiveTarget on a Lowrance HDS sounder, you can watch fish, bait, structure and your lure move in real time. That means less guesswork and more efficient casts that have a much better chance of putting your presentation right where it needs to be: in front of fish.
It still won't make cod fishing easy. Murray cod are notoriously fussy when hunting in their domain. But when you can see what's happening below the surface, you can make smarter decisions with every cast.
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What Does ActiveTarget Do?
ActiveTarget is live sonar, which means it shows exactly what's going on around the boat as it happens. Instead of only looking at old sounder history after you've already passed over fish, you can watch fish move, bait shift and your lure swim through the water in real time.
On the Lowrance setup used in this video, there are three main viewing modes: forward, down and scout. Forward mode looks ahead of the transducer in a thin and vertical slice; down mode looks directly down beneath the transducer in a thin vertical beam; and scout mode looks ahead of the transducer in a thin horizontal beam that runs parallel to the water's surface, which helps to cover more water. This mode is a great searching technique often used by cod and barramundi anglers today.
For cod fishos, that makes it a seriously handy tool. You can scan likely areas, watch how fish are positioned and work out whether they're sitting tight to structure, cruising open water or hanging around bait. This provides a great insight into their behaviour and offers clues as to how best to target them with a lure.
If you're keen to get more out of your electronics, a Lowrance HDS sounder paired with ActiveTarget can help you read the water in a whole new way. Think less guess work and more time in the strike zone.
Using and Setting Up Scout Mode to Locate Cod
Scout Mode is a handy option when you want to cover more water and get a better picture of what's happening ahead of the transducer: the transducer is typically mounted to either a mobile pole or the base of the electric bow-mounted trolling motor. Instead of looking straight down or only scanning in one direction, Scout Mode gives you a wider view forwards of the transducer (in a thin horizontal beam running parallel to the water's surface), making it ideal for searching open water, edges, points, timber lines and bait-holding areas. Anglers typically use a pole mounted transducer which allows them to push the pole up and down and side-to-side, thereby searching deep and shallow water and the areas in front of and to the sides of the boat.
For Murray cod, this can be a real advantage. Big fish won't always be sitting hard on structure. At times, they'll cruise nearby, suspend around bait or sit just off the edge of a likely zone. Scout Mode helps you spot those fish before you've drifted over the top of them.
Using Scout Mode takes practice and time taken to learn the settings on the sounder. The first decision is range: this is how far ahead of the transducer you set the search distance. Twenty-five metres is a great starting point: this makes it easier to identify fish without spooking them with the boat. Next set the palette colour: there are several to choose from and personal preference will dictate which is best. Number 3 (yellow) and number 6 (blue) are often preferred between night and day by many cod anglers. Contrast (sensitivity) is an important setting and you must know how to change this as it helps you find your lure and splash when conditions and lure sizes change. Many anglers spend time in-between settings of 75 to 82 but if you cannot see the splash of your lure and follow it in the water you need to change Contrast settings and possibly Noise Rejection settings. Noise Rejection will change how much "clutter" you see on the screen and changing this setting can help with the process of finding your lure as well as fish on the screen. Many anglers spend time with it set on Low but at times it needs to be turned to Off when using small lures or at times when you cannot see the lure splash. Having set the unit up for optimal searching it is time to get busy and find yourself a fish to cast at.
Anglers that are consistently successful when using ActiveTarget have similar habits. One aspect of their technique involves using the pole-mounted transducer to good effect. The approach involves driving the boat around with the electric bow-mount motor while working the pole up-and-down and side-to-side so as to scan the water ahead. It is paramount that the transducer be positioned correctly. On a Zero Mount bracket this means having the transducer set 2 clicks down off horizontal. The transducer then must be set at the right depth in the water. Typically, the pole should be at a slight angle ahead of the boat with the transducer just beneath the surface of the water. This will enable you to scan the surface waters ahead of you and then, by pushing the pole downwards, you will be able to search the deeper water ahead of your search. The mistake most anglers make is to have the transducer set too deep in the water: this will prevent you from seeing the lure splash as it hits the water, and if you don't see the splash you often fail to watch the lure swim through the water.
A good habit when using the pole is to constantly be working it up-and-down in the area you are searching. This provides a better chance of spotting fish. There is often a lot of bait in our cod waters that hides big cod: pointing the pole up and down will often help identify cod swimming just beneath the bait. The added benefit of pushing the pole up-and-down is that in some angles, a fish and its shadow suddenly becomes more obvious: this has a lot to do with the different orientations you will encounter fish when swimming.
Reading The Screen to Identify Big Fish
A big part of using live sonar well is learning to read the difference between bait, structure and bigger fish. Using the Live technology will help locate areas with increased bait or structure and it pays to spend more time searching in these areas. As a rule-of-thumb, try to search open waters during low light hours of the day and through the night, but as the sun gets higher, spend more time focusing your search around tight structure such as submerged timber and rocky areas.
It will take time to consistently identify cod on the sounder screen. Keep in mind there is a lot of information being presented: wave noise, bait and water clarity will all add noise to the screen. The aim is to identify bigger fish as fast as possible while moving around so that you ultimately have more time to put the boat in the best position to make an accurate cast that will put a lure in front of fish. Key techniques will help you get better at identifying big fish. Look for larger fish-shaped soundings that are moving: cod have a distinctive shape (big head and smaller s-moving tail) and movement pattern that is often slower than surrounding bait. Moving the pole will often help identify the shadow of a big fish. It is often the shadow that helps identify big fish sitting closer to the bottom. There are lots of bright returns that are associated with the bottom of the waterway, so looking for fish-shaped shadows will help your search.
Approaching Big Cod with Live Technology
Most big fish are caught using Live technology by getting the first cast right: this means presenting a lure across the face of a fish first time. This is difficult when you consider that the boat and fish are constantly moving objects (at variable speeds) and the fish can be in a range of water depths. The biggest advantage of using Scout Mode is the ability to know which way the fish is swimming and to be able to cast ahead of the fish and bring a lure into its line of vision. Once you've spotted a better fish, think about where it's facing, how deep it is sitting and where your lure needs to be cast to and then travel. The goal is to bring your lure through the fish's line of sight (not just somewhere near it) without the fish knowing you are there or hearing the splash of a lure landing too close to it: it's easier said than done!
A good tip once having located a big cod is to make sure that the boat does not get too close to the fish. Try to position the boat so that the fish is swimming away from you and then, without losing sight of the fish on the screen, position the boat so that you can make a quality cast. Murray cod typically swim more slowly than a species such as barramundi, so don't panic and calmly set the boat up so that the right cast can be made.
Tracking Your Lure
One of the biggest advantages of live sonar is being able to see your lure in real time. When your transducer is pointed in the right direction and your cast lands inside the beam, you can watch the lure sink, move and swim back towards the boat. To do this effectively, it is essential that the handle on the pole, or the head of the electric motor, point precisely in the same direction as the middle of the transducer. On your first trip to the water, take your Allen Key set and test the alignment: this means casting straight down the handle of the pole and ensuring the lure is splashing in the dead centre of the sounder screen.
That gives you instant feedback on what's actually happening below the surface. You can see if your cast has landed short, wide or past the fish, then adjust your next cast straight away. You can also watch how quickly your lure sinks and whether it is running through the same depth as the fish.
For Murray cod, this can be a game changer. A lure that is only a metre too high, low or wide can miss the mark completely. By tracking your lure on screen, you can keep it in the strike zone for longer and make each cast count. Using Scout Mode means you need to become good at identifying contrast. This means learning to identify when the lure and fish are glowing at the same brightness: this means they are both at the same depth. A lure fished too high above or below a cod will end in rejection and ultimately – a spooked fish. Good technique when casting at a deeper cod involves lifting the transducer to identify the lure splash, then pushing the pole down as the lure sinks and waiting until the cod and lure are glowing at the same brightness before hopefully retrieving the lure across the face of the fish.
It also helps you fine-tune your retrieve. If your lure is moving too quickly past the fish, slow it down. If it is sinking below them, lift the rod tip or start winding earlier. If the fish follows but won't commit, try adding a pause, changing the retrieve speed or switching to a different profile lure. This is especially handy for cod because they don't always charge in and eat straight away. Some fish will sit, follow or turn away if the presentation isn't quite right. By watching the screen, you can adjust your lure type, cast, sink time and retrieve to keep your lure in the zone for longer. Spend time watching how fish move on the screen. A cod sitting still, turning towards a lure or slowly following can tell you plenty. Even if it doesn't eat, you're still learning where the fish are holding, how they're reacting and what might get their attention next cast.
Different lures will show up differently on screen, so spend time learning what your favourites look like. Big soft plastics, swimbaits, spinnerbaits, glide baits and even jig-flies can all be tracked once you get your angles right.
Testing Presentations
Live sonar is a brilliant tool for working out what the fish actually want on the day. Instead of guessing whether your lure is getting noticed, you can watch how a cod reacts as it comes through the beam.
If a fish follows but doesn't eat, don't write it off as a failed cast. That follow can tell you plenty. The lure might be running at the wrong depth, moving too quickly, sitting too high in the water column or not giving off the profile the fish is keen on.
This is where small changes can make a big difference. Try slowing the retrieve, adding longer pauses, changing the sink time or switching your casting angle so the lure crosses the fish's path more naturally. Sometimes a cod needs the lure held in its face a little longer before it decides to commit.
Live sonar also makes it easier to compare different lure styles. A paddle tail soft plastic, swimbait, spinnerbait, glide bait or fly will all move differently through the water, and fish may react differently to each one. By watching the screen, you can see whether a change gets more interest or shuts the fish down completely.
Over time, this helps build a much better read on cod behaviour. You'll start to notice what makes fish turn, follow, speed up or back away, and that feedback is gold when the bite is hard-earned.
Making Every Cast Count
Live sonar won't do the fishing for you, but it can help you make smarter calls. You still need to read the water, pick the right lure, make a good cast and work it properly. The difference is, you're now getting real-time feedback on what's happening below the surface.
For Murray cod, that's a huge advantage. These fish can be hard-earned, and sometimes you only get one proper shot at a big green fish. If you can see where the fish is sitting, how deep it is and how it reacts to your lure, you've got a much better chance of putting your cast where it counts.
The key is to slow down and use the sounder as part of the process. Find the bait, look for larger returns, line up your cast and keep your lure in the strike zone for as long as possible. If the fish follows but doesn't eat, change something. If your lure is missing the mark, adjust your angle. Every cast gives you something to learn from.
Spend time getting comfortable with your settings, transducer direction and lure tracking. The more you use live sonar, the quicker you'll pick up what's worth casting at and what isn't.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best sounder setup for Murray cod fishing?
A large-screen fish finder with live sonar, side scan and down scan is ideal. A Lowrance HDS with ActiveTarget can help you find bait, spot fish and track your lure in real time. Mount the screen and transducer pole close to your fishing position for easier use.
Is live sonar worth it for Murray cod fishing?
Yes, especially if you take the time to learn it correctly. Live sonar helps you find fish, track lures and see how cod react, which all come in handy when chasing wary cod.
What lures show up best on live sonar?
Bigger lures are usually easier to track. Soft plastics, swimbaits, spinnerbaits and glide baits all show up well when your transducer and cast are lined up.
When is the best time to target Murray cod with live sonar?
Live sonar can work year-round, but cooler months are ideal for finding cod cruising open water or following bait.
Can you use ActiveTarget for Murray cod in rivers as well as dams?
Yes. In dams, it's great for bait schools, points and timber. In rivers, it can help scan holes, edges, laydowns and current breaks.
Live sonar won't magically put a cod in the net, but it can give you a cracking head start. Once you know how to read bait, track your lure and spot those big fishy returns, every cast becomes a little more calculated. So gear up with the right Murray cod fishing gear, get the sounder dialled and be ready when that big green bruiser rolls through.
About the author
BCFing Experts
The BCFing Experts have done more than their fair share of boating, camping, fishing, hiking, four-wheel driving and much much more! Whether you're tackling tough tracks in Tassie or chasing big barra up North, the BCFing Experts have the know-how to make your next outdoor adventure a pearler
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